Spring

I’ll start by saying that yes, I felt the earthquake, but myself along with everyone I love here in Bhutan are totally safe. The experience was pretty crazy for me, having never felt an earthquake before. It felt like I was standing on a floating dock (the kind they have at GL country club) on a wavy day. A wild realization was that it was the solid earth under my feet doing that, not water. It didn’t last long here in Bhutan and, in my community at least, there is no damage. We were very lucky. However, keep those who died or who are injured in Nepal and India in your prayers.

Now a chunky transition on to more positive topics:

Spring here is such a beautiful season.  – I warned you. I’m not a skilled enough writer to make that transition smooth - Although my friends claim that we are being cheated out of spring and jumping right from winter to summer this year, I don’t mind. It’s still beautiful to me.

I realize everyday that I’m in one of the most beautiful places in the world. If I don’t realize it, I remind myself. I have to, or the 5 am alarm for “Teacher On Duty” days; the students who would like nothing better than to be the center of attention everyday – even if it means being the center of attention while being disciplined; the Saturdays when I remember that everyone at home is enjoying their weekend while I’m still at work (yes we have a half day of school on Saturday); it would all get me down. And believe me, some days it tries to get me down.

But then I look up at the mountains, or down at the vegetable gardens that surround life here and remember where I am and how fleeting this experience is.

My mother told me once that she loves the look of farms. It gives her a sense of security to see massive fields of food growing. I never understood or appreciated that sentiment until now. I’ve stopped looking up at the mountains and started looking down at the farms. How the people of Bhutan have managed to engineer farming on the side of mountains is beyond me, but I am so grateful that they have. Forget about the fact that it provides the food that sustains my life, but the fields are an intricate part of the landscape here. The fields themselves are split into little puzzle pieces falling down the side of the hills and mountains. Inside each field, the soil is plowed and the vegetables planted in rows that turn these farms into textiles. I’ve never before seen the beauty in gardening.

When I first arrived in Thinleygang everywhere I turned there were greens being sold or given to me for free and I ate them almost everyday. That lasted for about two, maybe three, weeks. Now I can’t find them anywhere in town. Their growing season is early spring, before the bugs come to eat their leaves. So now there are new vegetables planted in the gardens and they are just starting to grow.

I realized the other day that it’s already the end of April. I did the math, and I’ve been here for three months. Some days three months feels like nothing, and other days it feels like everything. During the highs I’m afraid for my limited amount of time left here. And during the lows I make an effort to remind myself how little time I have left here.  Bhutan is a land-locked country and once I leave (be it in December, or four years from now) I’ll never be able to experience Bhutan like this again. Sure, I have the opportunity to return as a tourist, but that would be a drastically different experience, lacking the freedom I enjoy so much. 

 

Last Sunday, April 19, my friend Ugyen and I went to the Rhododendron festival. It is a cultural festival that is named for the budding rhododendron flowers. Our students performed dances, skits, and sold homemade gifts. 

Also being sold were traditional Bhutanese dishes. I don't know the Dzongkha word for this, but it's some type of rice pancake with sauce on top of it. I haven't done any better of a job describing it than the picture would have on its own. But no one I was with knew what goes into preparing this dish. It was tasty though :). 

At the festival, there were yak herders selling their goods as well. This yak was standing still as a statue, until I raised my camera to take a picture of it. Then it tried to charge me. In that moment I was more scared than I've been since coming to Bhutan. Thankfully it was tied up and the rope stopped it from running me down! 

The festival was held at a botanical garden about 40 min. from my village. This is my friend Ugyen and I with our homemade necklaces bought from the greening club. 

Then, this Saturday, April 25, we had a school rimdro. This is just like the puja that my house had - a religious holiday meant for prayer and to make offerings to the Gods. This is the alter inside a tent set up on our assembly ground. The alter consists of offerings to the Gods including bowls of water, butter candles, food, wine, and more. Everything seen here has more meaning than I can describe here, or that I completely understand. 

Guru Rinpoche is a Buddhist saint who first came to Bhutan around 700AD and is responsible for bringing Buddhism to Bhutan. 

I tried to sneak this picture of the reincarnation of Guru Rinpoche. He is the head of the Bhutanese church, but currently is still young, studying in a monastery here in Bhutan. 

Another ritual of rimdro is the fire. People burned money, prayers written on paper, nails, and hair. It is believed that burning your nails and hair in this blessed fire will bring good fortune. I didn't throw any money into the fire, but I did pluck out one of my hairs to be burned. 

One of the monks pouring offerings into the fire. 

The disaster management team assembling students on the basketball court after the earthquake. 

Other than ema datshi, I'd say the most offered traditional food here is suja - butter tea. This is how the Bhutanese churn up the butter and salt before adding it to the tea. This is the one Bhutanese dish that I avoid if possible. 

Friends and I during the rimdro. 

Students here love quotes. Classrooms are full of them. 

A couple cuties using all their might to turn the prayer wheel on campus. 

I told you the farms are beautiful didn't I? 

A glimpse down into the valley during a morning walk. 

These little guys are all over right now. Caterpillars and clovers are everywhere I look. I am constantly looking down hoping to find a 4-leaf clover. So far no luck. (pun intended ;) )